Monthly Archives: June 2008

Tmonkey Does Hellish Kitchen: Nice & Spicey

by Irwin Chen


I don’t know what the official name of this restaurant is. It’s between 36th and 37th on 9th Ave. The awning says “Cuisine of Pakistan” but somebody took the trouble of bending some neon to say “Nice and Spicey”. So I’m going to go with that.

I like the fact that they play up the spiciness of their food (in the tradition of “Spicy and Tasty”, the great Sichuan restaurant in Flushing) and I can attest — it’s spicy all right, but not excessive. The food is what we know mostly as “Indian food” but really it’s Pakistani, readily identifiable dishes to the Western eye like “chana”, “biryani”, and “saag”. All of the meat is halal (you will see chicken and goat), and the naans are baked fresh to order. The setup is your basic steam table but if you get there right at 12 noon on a weekday, it’s basically like stumbling into a large home-cooked family meal, with all of the dishes fresh off the stove. In the back there is a prayer area which gets full around 1pm with cab drivers, security guards and assorted vendors performing their zuhr (midday prayer).

What I love about this place is a) they don’t hold back on the heat and b) they change up the entrees every day. Just about every time I’ve been there, there have been different meat and veggie specials. This particular day I got the Ground Chicken with Bitter Melon. Fabulous.

Damn fine cuisine.

Wall of Pakistani CDs and phonecards for sale.

The guys who make the magic happen. (Fresh naans made to order.)

You can expect to drop anywhere from $6 to $11 for lunch here, depending on the sides and the drinks. It’s all good.

Nice & Spicey
bet. 36th and 37th St. on 9th Ave.


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Grand Sichuan West (NYC)

by Tyson Kubota

John Zhang, the owner of the Grand Sichuan minichain, has just opened a new restaurant in the West Village. He’s aiming for a slightly more upscale vibe than the St. Mark’s, Chelsea, or Jersey City locations, trying to implement healthier cuisine than other oil-centric Chinese restaurants while still including a variety of Sichuan and Hunan specialties.

Intrigued after reading about his plans on his website, which has extensive primers on trends in “new Sichuan cuisine,” I saw that he was hosting tasting events over the course of three nights to get feedback before the restaurant opens (now serving dinner only, with full service apparently on its way in two weeks). I emailed him and managed to score an invite to give feedback on his food, decor, etc.

I’d been to the Grand Sichuan on St. Marks before, and was already a fan of the Hunan (billed as “authentic Mao-style”) food that I haven’t really seen anywhere else in Manhattan, and at only a few places in Flushing.

When we arrived, John Zhang was sitting at a large circular table with 7 or 8 guests. Soon, plate after plate of food began to arrive; as each was passed around the table, John asked for feedback and even criticized his chef’s work (he accurately warned us that the tea-smoked duck tended to be too salty, for example).

There were some American-style Chinese dishes (orange chicken, beef with broccoli, fried rice), which he included to give us an idea of the range of “Chinese” styles that the menu would encompass. There were also dishes that attempted to use Chinese cooking techniques and spices with less conventional ingredients: a flash-fried tilapia in a Sichuan peppercorn sauce smothered with dried red chiles and corn (!) was the biggest hit of the night.

The ‘chicken broth-poached string beans’ were not as popular; I think most of us prefer them dry-sauteed with minced pork.

Overall, John was refreshingly candid, and in addition to being a gracious host, was more than willing to incorporate some of our suggestions into the restaurant’s menu, like adding smaller plates of classic Sichuan appetizers and giving the option of some smaller-sized entrees to permit sampling a wider variety of dishes during a meal.

Everyone at the table agreed that the authentic Sichuan and Hunan dishes were the best, with an especially great preserved-vegetable hot pot and braised sliced beef with chilis.

Most importantly, the food we were served was flavorful and well-prepared. Here are some additional photos:

The Hunan pumpkin is always popular…


…as is the double-cooked pork…


and the Chong Qing spicy chicken.


Chicken soup with pumpkin seeds and goji berries

According to its website, the restaurant is now serving dinner only, with full service apparently on its way in two weeks:

Grand Sichuan West (7th Ave)
15 Seventh Ave. South, nr. Leroy St.
NYC
212-645-0222

Crabbing – REAL American Joint

by Moto Yamamoto
I visited my friend in Alexandria this weekend. She teaches kindergarten in MD. Last time I visited her, it was right before the crab season, and she promised me she would take me to crabbing next time I am in the area.

2 years later, I went back. By this time, she got out of boonytown MD, and is now living in Alexandria. I didn’t care for going out in DC, or Georgetown. All I wanted was to relax and eat crab. Although she has been living there, she has never been to a real crab joint. Maryland blue crab, cracking its shell with a wooden hammer, was something I saw on Food Network every time they talk about MD.

Her boyfriend, JT, found a place near the Potomac river in Dumfries, VA. Dumb Fries? What a name?! It’s as bad as Intercourse, PA, Hooker, OK, or New Erection, VA… Speaking of odd town names, check this out. This is pretty funny. http://www.accuracyproject.org/towns.html

Anyhow, we went to Tim’s River Shore. It was located on the Potomac, and the direction were very serious. According to their website, direction said “…You’ll then make a left to be on Cherry Hill Road. Follow that a couple miles down a windy curvy road, cross the railroad tracks and you’re dead end at the river. Tim’s is down the gravel on the left hand side”. Dead raccoons, double wide, trampoline, you name it, they were there. We drove JT’s Mercedes, and thought we would be totally ass kicked. Pick up trucks were definitely the car of choice.

Though we were skeptical, or scared, we were determined to crack the shells with a hammer, so we went to the restaurant. It was REAL. No bullshit. Tabletops were covered with bikini contest pictures from 10 years ago, as you can see below. Can you imagine you come back to the joint after 10 years, with your husband, and he finds your skimpy bikini on the table top?


We ordered a dozen crabs. There was this salt mixture on the table. It was salt, pepper, paprika and thyme.

Other dipping sauce, malt vinegar. I don’t like it because it smells like stinky feet, and I wish they had rice vinegar instead.

After a couple of minutes, the waiter brought a big piece of paper to put over the table, and a piece of wood. I was hoping to get a nice wooden hammer, but oh well, we were in Dumfries, it might be too dangerous to give a hammer to a drunk customer. You never know who’s the wife beaters, since everyone was wearing one…


While crabs were being steamed, I took a picture of the river from my table.

Here comes the goods. Perfectly steamed, smeared with the salt mixture, with wipes (which is a joke, since my fingers smelled like crab until next morning), and lemon wedges.

Let me tell you. This place was for REAL. I’ve had crabs at many places, but this was the freshest crabs I have ever had in my life. I’ve had big crabs in Japan. But we Japanese don’t use hammers to crack crabs. We are too polite to the dead animal, so we use a knife, scissors, cracker, and other devices, but I will tell my mom to buy a wooden hammer. It was very easy to crack. These crabs weren’t that big and the process was very labor intensive. You first crack the hand, suck the meat out, then move to the body.

If I was with my mom, she would slurp the guts, but I didn’t. Did you know lump crab meat comes from near the butt of a crab? That was a new findings while eating it. Also I have a complete new respect and understanding of why lump crab meat is so expensive. I want to know how crab shackers can extract the meat without breaking the delicate meat. It was so hard, and being me, the most impatient person, I basically put everything in my mouth and spat out the shells. I also found out not all the crab meat is red (or pink) and white. These guys were almost brown and white. You think it’s kind of gross looking at brown, but it was so flavorful, sweet and yummy.

I bet I can make a nice broth out of the shells.

Who builds a red coconut tree in the middle of white trash town in VA? Tim’s does.

It kind of look like some restaurant you see on the ocean front, but Tim’s was totally in the ghetto land. I was the only Asian, and I saw two Black people, and everyone else was white. All the girls hair was totally teased up, and blond, and all the guys had mustache. Real.

On a side note, this is what my friend got as “thank you” gift from one of the kid’s parent. Can you believe this? Money flowers! People down there are very creative, in a trashy way…

We came home, put all the clothes in the washer, then took shower… I will definitely go back with a group of people. Definitely worth it.

Tim’s Rivershore Restaurant & Crabhouse
1510 Cherryhill Road
Dumfries, VA 22026
T: 703.441.1375

UM Recession: Just Don’t Eat

by Kayoko Akabori

Here’s something I saw in my subway stop over the weekend- “Slim Shots”, liquid appetite controllers that look more like little containers of half & half. Let’s call them appetite control creamers. Fucking gross!!! Their tagline is “Eat up to 30% less everyday without feeling hungry”. Perfect during our declining economy- I mean, who can really afford to eat these days anyway? Never mind that this costs $80 a box.


This is your SHOT! Omg I’m dying, this is so bad.

Is it just me, or does it feel more and more like the 80s everyday? This is SO 80s!!! In design and concept.