Monthly Archives: June 2008

Pride and Fried

by Moto Yamamoto

After my unsuccessful trial to make “baked” doughnuts, it has been sitting on my head that I need to make edible doughnut. I have a tendency to keep trying until I succeed, as you can see from my Laduree battle.

Speaking of macarons, I still make them for parties and when bored, and I have to say, I fail once every three times. It looks exactly the same when piped out on the cookie sheet, but for some reason, could be humidity, could be the quality of eggs, or whatever the reason is, it looks like the first trial… I think summer Fridays might have to be spent perfecting this.

Back to the doughnut story… This time, I didn’t mess with baking. As I said, doughnuts should be fried, so my intention from the beginning was to fry and make damn good doughnuts. Yesterday was Pride Day, and I had many parties to go, starting 1pm. I knew I would get drunk, but stupidly I started making the dough anyways. Once I mixed everything, I covered and went to a party nearby.

Since it was a pride party, I wanted to contribute something appropriate for the occasion. So I made rainbow jello (of course heavily vodka infused) cake. Everyone was so fascinated by it, cause it looks like a hard work. All you need for making jello cake is patience. You make each color in separate bowls, then cool it. Jello needs to be refrigerated in order to solidify, so it is not that time sensitive. So I made 5 colors, following the recipe on the box, but instead of cold water, I added vodka.

To make each layer more distinctive, I made a white layer using condensed milk, water, and gelatin. Once everything gets cooled, I poured the first layer, put in freezer for 5 minutes, then poured white layer, put in freezer for 5 minutes, then next color, etc., etc., The key is to make sure each layer is settled before pouring the next layer. When taking out of the freezer, if it juggles like boobs, it is ready for next layer. I screwed up first layer a bit, but overall, it was good looking, fun, and very appropriate for the occasion. No one touched it until I announced that it has a ton of vodka in it. After that, in 3 minutes, it was all gone. No matter how old you get, jello shots are such a party favorite.


After 3 hours of heavy drinking at my friend’s apt, I realized I had dough resting, rising, waiting to be fried. So I went home, tipsy, or maybe drunker than I thought… Once I got home, the dough had nicely risen to almost triple the original size. I rolled it out, then cut out the circles. After this, you are supposed to wait for another 40-60 minutes to double the size, but I had to go to another party, so I waited for about 20 minutes, then fried them. Meanwhile, I made glaze with melted butter, powdered sugar and some water.

Once it was fried to nice golden brown, I dunked them in the glaze, and they look like almost Krispy Kream style.
I didn’t have enough glaze, so I coated munchkins with sugar.
Verdict: It didn’t taste like doughnuts. It was like something we Japanese had in elementary school lunch. Fried bread, coated with sugar. Or it was similar to funnel cake. It was good, but not a doughnut. I guess the bottom line is you need to designate time when baking. Don’t go out in between, or don’t bake in a rush. I asked myself after it was done, “why the hell am I frying doughnut on pride day?!” My devotion to bake? Sheer insanity? Trying to be butch by frying on the gayest day of the year?

Whatever it was, my trial number 2 wasn’t great, either. Also doughnuts should be eaten while they are warm, and none of my friends would eat fried food, so all were left and I brought everything to work. At least people at my work appreciated the effort…

by Kayoko Akabori























Sheepsmilk Cheese from Portugal

by Kayoko Akabori





The Umami Reader, vol. 023: Bitters and Murakami

by Kayoko Akabori

The only 2 food-related stories I read this week- bear with me until mid-July please!:

  • Homemade bitters: a short, concise guide to this timeless liquor, with links to various recipes to make your own (Chow)
  • Takashi Murakami-inspired instant ramen packaging- pretty dope (via Adam for Serious Eats)

*What are you reading? Please send links to what you’re skimming to umamimart@gmail.com

Wine & Cheese at the Conservatory Garden

by Erin Gleeson

My friend Stephen is a professional gardener at the Conservatory Garden in Central Park and he invited me to a sweet little soiree they were having on Wednesday. If you haven’t been, it’s a spectacular garden on 105th Street and 5th Avenue that is filled with summer blooms right now.

A wine and cheese party was thrown by the Central Park Conservancy for members and supporters of the garden. It was a beautifully warm June evening that felt whimsical with roaming musicians, wine and cheese tastings, and an amazing dessert sampling table that I had a hard time getting away from!

A selection of Cabot Vermont Cheese was provided (local, affordable and delicious- I buy this brand all the time at the grocery store!) along with wine from Martha Clara Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island. The cold Pinot Grogio was great (and local!).

Here are a few photos from the evening…thanks, Stephen!



Stephen & I:







Fridgin’ Out: Moving Out in San Francisco, Pt. II

by Kayoko Akabori

I’m back this week with my lady Vanessa’s fridge. You may recall that I went through V’s fridge a few weeks ago, as she was moving out of her SF apartment- here’s her fridge, just as fun as her freezer was!


Fish sauce! I remember this just sat in my cupboard for a few years in my last apartment- this one is pretty untouched too. Has anyone ever used up an entire bottle of this stuff??? Mmmm summer rolls…

Packs of udon noodles. This seems to be a popular fridge item- I remember them in Yoskay‘s fridge, and Mariana‘s too.

A bag of miso. I put mine in a ziploc bag too!
A nice container of asian pears. I don’t know why TJ’s packages their fruits this way, it seems so wasteful.

Cat food! Holla to Masi!

Irish oatmeal- I always want to get this, especially in the really nice white round can (I’m such a sucker for packaging!), but not sure how to cook it. Is this just like regular oatmeal?
Rice vinegar. Organic? Is that necessary?
TJ’s chicken broth. A good pantry item, though it doesn’t last too long once it’s open.

Premium chunk chicken from TJ’s. V, why is this in the fridge?

Real leftover chicken. Yum.

Havarti cheese slices.

Fridge door! My favorite part.

Kim chee!

Sriracha. My brother seriously went through a phase where he went through one of these bottles every week. Vanessa used to come over in college and he would cook for us- he fucking put it on everything. He’s cooking professionally now- WATCH OUT!

An unopened can of artichoke hearts. In the fridge again? Love this girl.

Hot sauce! I want to do a hot sauce battle soon. What’s your favorite?

Vegetable boxes- this was my favorite part of V’s fridge. Check it- midnight snackysnacks.
Best part- one of the boxes was devoted to various grains and beans. Looked like they were from some fancy health food store or something. They were all neatly labeled and tightly sealed.

Couscous, brown rice, some variety of beans. So healthy! I need to start eating more like this for sure. Less carbs, more grains! Relinquish the noodle! Yeah right. Never.

*I’m sorry I missed last week! Keep Fridgin’ Out alive and tell me what’s in your fridge. Nosy eaters want to know. Send pics to umamimart@gmail.com.

Champagne with Mel Brooks at Adour

by Erin Gleeson

This week I went to a champagne reception at Adour Alain Ducasse, the 6 month old restaurant inside the St. Regis Hotel in NYC. I was there taking pictures of a reception for supporters of the James Beard Foundation, and in walks Mel Brooks. Everyone of course wanted me to take their picture with him. He, however, seemed to be taken with me. Oui, moi! He came right up to me and asked what my name was. He reached out and held my hand and said “Erin, You’re beautiful. Are you married?” No, I said, but I have a boyfriend. “Well,” he replied, “He should marry you. You’re so beautiful. You two should have a couple kids.”

When I managed to stop blushing I asked him if he got mobbed by admirers everywhere he went, and he said yes. He wasn’t even invited to this reception, he just happened to be at the bar of the St. Regis and wanted to see the new restaurant’s wine cellar. (How wonderful to be greeted with such affection everywhere you go!) After a bit more flattery, a glass of champagne, and a viewing of the incredible wines on display (this man knows his wine!), Mel moved on to charm more ladies and have more photos taken. As he was leaving, however, he hollered in my direction, “Erin, I love you! Goodbye!” and was out the door.

Quite a character, this one….

The french macaroons (by pastry chef Sandro Micheli) were to die for! I had 3.


A variety of different chamapagnes were provided by Henriot. The best they said was a Cuvee des Enchanteleurs 1995. I have no idea if I even tried that one. They were all good to me!




The bar that seats 4 people:

Some of the wines on display in the dining room


Au Revoir, Florent! (NYC)

by Erin Gleeson


We waited 2 hours for a table last night at Florent, and it was worth it. They were all out of artichoke which was highly disappointing, but my veggie burger on an english muffin with tomato basil mayo made up for it. As usual, the place was peacefully packed with people of all ages and types- models next to grandpas next to trannies beside yuppies.

Everyone who has been to Florent seems to have a special place in their heart for the place (and the man). If you have not been, or even if you have, you must go NOW! Put your name in and go for a walk. Florent, as I’m sure you’ve heard, is closing this Sunday, June 29th, appropriately on Pride Day. Rent in the meatpacking district got too high and after so many years, the beloved 24 hour diner is closing. Such a shame! I refuse to frequent whatever establishment takes its place.

Get your t-shirts for $20, your menu mementos for $30 and look on ebay for all the maps that adorned the walls… and do one last toast to Florent (the man) for giving us so many memorable and truly New York moments over escargots, mac & cheese or pancakes.

The infamous menu board:

Us with Florent himself:

Florent

69 Gansevoort Street
nr. Washington St.
NYC
212-989-5779

The Anatomy of a Papaya

by Kayoko Akabori

I’m not sure where exactly I picked up my love for the papaya, but I do love it. It’s a magical fruit, super tropical. It has the power to make you feel as though you are on a white sand beach somewhere farfarfaraway, crystal blue waters, the rustling of the palm trees, soft waves crashing… omg stop now!

Papayas tend to get really huge, so I like to buy mine pre-cut. Little rules for the single person in NYC- only buy what you can eat! Here’s what I picked up at my corner grocer- not cheap.


One thing- the seeds of the papaya are very very creepy. I don’t know what it is- they are just hundreds of small black balls. They’re almost insect-like, it gives me the eeby-jeebies. There’s nothing like it in the fruit family though, I don’t think- it’s fascinating.


Someone once told me that papayas are a sexual fruit- sorta vaginal, maybe?

Squirt some lemon on it and you’re good to go. So fresh and so clean, clean.

Speaking of vaginas, I just saw Judy Chicago’s famed work, The Dinner Party, on permanent view at the Brooklyn Museum this weekend. The Georgia O’Keefe plate is off the hook! Go check it out!

UM Recession: Amish Market Butter

by Kayoko Akabori

There’s been much talk about butter in the press in the last few months: the NY Mag butter taste-testing, and the article that Emily (of Serious Eats) pointed out about Japan’s endangered butter supply. Also, there was my babbling manifesto on butter last year- the stuff means a lot to me.

But, butter is also excessively expensive- the good stuff even more so. So let me tell you that the best, and cheapest butter in NYC is at the Amish Market- if you live or work near one of the four market locations in town, you are in luck. Believe me, at $4.98/lb., this is the creamiest, freshest, cheapest block of butter ever!!! It even has a sell-by date!


You can get it by the 1/2 lb. for as little as $2.50, and it comes folded in wax paper, then saran wrap. Doesn’t get much more DIY than that! Considering that actual Amish COUNTRY butter from PA is the best I’ve ever had, I would say that Amish MARKET knows what they’re doing. Let’s hope it’s not a clever marketing ploy to toy with my butter-obsessed mind.

Butter porn shots.

Grease me up!

PS- I’m going on a faux-vacation and will be back next Wednesday, I promise. Miss me!